The Lakes Day 3 - Tarn Hows, Hawkshead & Hill Top
Day 3 was Beatrix Potter Day! We started a stroll around Tarn Hows which Beatrix Potter, a world-famous children's author, artist, farmer and land conservationist bought along with the surrounding lands to conserve and protect and left to the National Trust.
Tarn Hows was man-made in Victorian times when a beck was dammed. It was supposed to be a beautiful spot surrounded by woods and hills although it was dark cloudy (again) when we started walking. Moreover, because of "Phytopthora ramorum," a fungal-like tree disease, many trees around the tarn have been cut down to stop further infection. The scenery was rather sad.
When we reached about a half point, we had a tea break at a bench. Thankfully the blue sky was emerging behind the chunk of clouds! The latter path somehow provided more beautiful views - tree-crowded islands on the tarn. Perhaps the improving weather helped a lot.
The place was like a secret sanctuary. It would be very pleasant to have a picnic here.
Our walk at Tarn Hows ended with happy, peaceful memories after all. Meanwhile we truly hope the tree disease will be controlled properly and the woods will be saved for the future.
Next, we drove to Wray Castle. Built in 1840 as a retirement property by surgeon James Dawson and his wife Margaret, the enormous Gothic Revival country house was a holiday let at some point. It is said that the Potter family rented the house out for their first vacation in the Lake District in 1882 and celebrated Beatrix's 16th birthday.
After the brief visit of the castle, we drove to a historic market village, Hawkshead. There were a few of places I wanted to visit there. One was Hawkshead Relish Company. Before this trip, I learned that damsons are one of the Lake District's specialties and added "buy a local damson jam from a decent local shop" on my to-do list. Check! In fact we bought more than a damson jam, which will be another story.
There was a medieval church on a small hill over the village. It is said that the poet William Wordsworth, who went to school in Hawkshead, liked to sit in the churchyard. He also wrote about the church.
Lunch time! We tried a highly-rated pub, Queens Head.
Originally I ordered a chicken sandwich, but they found out that they didn't have chicken later. My plan B was rarebit. It was fine but a little too much cheese for me. J had a lamb burger, which was not so flavorful but salty. Well, the place wasn't our taste, I guess. The serving was so slow, which is commonly seen in England. I forgot about it since we haven't dined-out for a long time!
After the so-so lunch, we visited the Beatrix Potter Gallery. It was very nice to see her original artworks and the inside of the 17 century stone-built building that used to be the office of Beatrix's husband and respected local solicitor, William Heelis.
Our next stop was Hill Top, a 17 century farmhouse that Beatrix bought in 1905. The path to the house just looked like a picture I have seen in the Tale of Pigling Bland!
The inside of the house was warm and charming. The room that Beatrix used for writing was surprisingly dark with limited sunlights!
The house and gardens were the world of her books. J kindly bought several books at the gift shop as my souvenirs. It would be fun to find a scene in the books that we actually witnessed during our trip.
Finally we came back to Ambleside. We walked the town a bit. Perhaps Bridge House was the most interesting thing to see for me. The 17th century little house on the Stock Beck was originally used to access both side of lands as a bridge and also to store apples according to National Trust. Further, "Its survival could be down to its many practical uses over the decades which include being used as a counting house for the mills of Rattle Ghyll, a tea-room, a weaving shop, a cobbler's, a chair maker's and, at one time, a home to a family of eight." The house was really tiny, though.
We stopped by at the Apple Pie cafe to buy, of course, an apple pie!
In short, the pie wasn't as good as I expected based on many good reviews that the cafe has received. Oh well.
To be continued...
